A rigorous selection of ingredients
“The year 2015, according to Elsa Sassi, Marketing Manager at Pharma & Beauty Group, marks the beginning of blacklist editions among the principals. At that time, only a few players with a strong focus on organic and clean products were questioning us in this direction. Today, there is an acceleration of this approach for all our formulation axes, both in prestige and massmarket for small and large companies”. To meet this demand for products meeting the Clean Beauty standards, companies have reviewed their working methods and have strengthened their criteria for ingredient selection “There is a lot of work upstream of the formulation on the selection of ingredients that must be ethical, responsible, traceable and if possible multifunctional” explains Nathalie Dessirier, Marketing Manager at MS Beautilab. An opinion also shared by Pharma & Beauty Group “we have implemented a drastic selection of ingredients which requires a longer and more meticulous work in order to receive more information from our suppliers and to go beyond the requirements of the cosmetic regulation standards. However, the target costs remain roughly the same as for classic products and we have to find solutions to enter into these price targets“.
Moreover, “Formulating minimalist products requires special know-how if we want to maintain a beautiful sensoriality and great efficiency. Our proposals for solid cosmetics for all stages of the skin care routine required months of development,” says Anne Rutigliano, Marketing & Communication Director at Anjac Health & Beauty. It is clear that the cost of the product goes far beyond the ingredients used. For MS BeautiLAB, the observation is the same: “For certain categories of highly technical products such as mascaras and primers, meeting the requirements of clean beauty is very challenging and requires a high level of technicality and knowledge of the profession”. MS Beautilab has recently taken up the challenge by developing the 1st IncrediGreen Lashes mascara containing 99.7% natural ingredients and meeting vegan and clean requirements. Clean beauty by asking to get to the essentials requires companies to refocus on the business, keeping in mind as Steve Jobs said “Simplicity may be harder to achieve than complexity: you have to work hard to think right and keep it simple”. And that comes at a cost.
Towards a democratization of clean beauty
Nevertheless, according to P&B Group, “All brands, regardless of their positioning and price range, are now interested in Clean beauty. We are witnessing a real democratization of Clean Beauty without doing compromises on formulations’ stability & sensoriality”. And it is not so much the number of ingredients that will make the price of the formula but all the know-how that has been implemented to offer a product that meets the customer’s demands.
Clean Beauty will perhaps allow the cosmetics industry to put the expertise of the men and women of the profession back at the centre of the product’s value, an interesting way in these times when the world is asking to change.
Written by Régine FRICK