IN AND OUT : THE FIRST INGREDIENTS INTAKE
When we talk about ingredients for beautiful skin in Asia, we need to take a look at in and out beauty, aka beauty supplement, a staple in Asian routine.
TCM inspired : Many Traditional Chinese Medecine ingredients are famous for their skin & hair beauty benefits such as Bird’s Nest for whitening & moisturizing or Ginseng for anti-aging and can be found in star products such as BEIJING TONG REN TANG EDIBLE BIRD’S NEST NICOTINAMIDE COLLAGEN PEPTIDE FLAVOR SOLID DRINK. Nicknamed “small golden bar”, this drinkable collagen powder offers holistic anti-aging care that moisturizes, brightens, nourishes skin, fight against glycation, protect eyes and intimate area.
Popular beauty supplements ingredients : According to 2019 CBNData survey, popular skincare ingredients in beauty supplements in China are HA and Peptide for moisturizing, Niacinamide, VC and Glutathione for whitening and Collagen, Anthocyanidin, Blood Orange and Caviar for anti-aging. For instance, SEPHORA COLLAGEN DRINK COLLECTION launched in 2019 is a best seller in China, by offering a mix of high-quality Japanese Nippi collagen and popular local ingredients such as Black Sesame or Blood Orange.
Hot concern : “Caramel face” (焦糖脸) in China refers to skin glycation process which leads to the breakdown of collagen, the loss of hyaluronic acid, and skin becomes dull and loose. To answer that need Japanese brand POLA has launched the upgraded BA TABLETS, top sellers on TMALL in China. Targeting skin aging concerns such as dryness, dullness, sagging and wrinkles, BA liquid & tablets are formulated with star ingredient ‘Ch-A’ essence, South Africa Black tea, Proteoglycan, and other herbal extracts to prevent glycation and aging .
Key skincare ingredients in Asia vary depending on the benefits sought after – from soothing Cica, Azulene or Allantoin, to moisturizing Ceramide and HA, anti-aging Fullerene and acne care AHA, BHA and Sulphur.
Vitamins are also on the top list of sought-after ingredients, especially for brightening, aging and hydrating benefits as illustrated by the latest hot daily skincare routine in China : VC for whitening & anti-oxidation during the day and VA for skin repair & anti-aging during the night. This routine has reached more than 480K posts on Chinese social media RED (March 2021).
Indeed, VC and VC derivatives enriched products can help fight against skin oxidation caused by external aggression, prevent skin dullness and protect the activity of other skin care active ingredients. Careful ! Wear sunscreen to avoid skin sensibilization. On the other hand, VA enriched (Retinol, Retinal, etc.) products can deeply repair skin, promote the regeneration of collagen, diminish wrinkles and restore skin elasticity while reducing spot & acne scar and evening skin tone. This combination of benefits explain why the routine became so popular on social media !
In the same dynamic, Korean brand IOPE launched in April 2021 their new VITAMIN A+C+E CREAM that contains a Vitamin A+C+E Complex™ : Retinol (Vitamin A) / The Vitamin C23 (Vitamin C) / Vitamin E Ceramide Cream (Vitamin E). It cares for 5 major aging signs: wrinkles, elasticity, moisture level, lifting, skin density and improves spots and dull skin tones as well as hydration and skin barrier with Panthenol.
Covid-related : Boom of medical/ointments inspired ingredients for fragilized skin
As more and more consumers are suffering from face mask-induced skin troubles and dryness, cosmetics companies are looking for better ingredients to meet this need. Some of them are looking at Fusidium Coccineum, the main ingredient in Korea’s beloved ointment, FUCIDIN; for heightened medical-level skin treatment. It is the case for new FUSIDIUM TROUBLE CALMING LINE BY APIEU, a skincare line containing Fusidium™ Complex comprised of fermented Fusidium Coccineum Filtrate to protect sensitive skin and cares for troubled skin and Dex Panthenol that prevents hydration loss and soothes skin.
In Japan, the appetite for highly moisturizing and repairing products is also strong, as illustrated by the launch of NATURABLE+HEPA FOAM, Japan's first foam-type OTC drug containing 0.3% of Heparinoid. Heparinoid promotes metabolism from within the skin by improving blood flow, thereby improving dry and rough skin.
This finds echo in the Western markets where popular scar and burn ointments such as Biafine have extended their range to care for irritated and fragile skins.
What about make-up ?
In our recent Green make report, we have seen many brands infusing skincare ingredients in make-up to offer soothing and moisturizing benefits (especially since Covid), and many consumers wish for their make-up to act as the last step of their skincare routine. So, let’s take a look at the next skincare ingredients in makeup !
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) is highly popular in anti-aging and anti-wrinkle care for most Asian brands, Niacinamide. Japanese brand Crystal Jemmy launched the first quasi-drug medicated foundation JEMMY NEFERTARI WRINKLE SERUM FOUNDATION (QD) SPF50+/PA+++ focusing on wrinkle improvement, whitening, and prevention of skin irritation. It is formulated with the active ingredient Niacinamide, as well as moisturizing ingredients including 3 types of vitamin C derivatives, Retinol, and 3 types of Ceramide.
Microbiome has become an extremely hot topic in the cosmetic industry for all categories from skincare to haircare, and now becoming instrumental in providing long lasting moisture while wearing makeup. Japanese green brand AY-NATURAL launched MINERAL ROLL-ON BB SPF32/PA+++ that contains “Skin Pro-Biotics” : “Enterococcus Faecalis” and “Raffinose” help create a healthy balance of normal bacterial flora.
CBD slowly reaches make-up in Asia, despite China planned ban on cannabis cosmetics and CBD. It is seen as good ingredient to provide relief for fragile skin due to wearing mask, especially in complexion products. CBD SOOTHING AND LONGLASTING launched in February 2021 by Chinese brand ZMC is a "CBD infused primer & foundation 2 in 1 double foundation soothes and repairs sensitive skin while creating long-lasting natural translucent foggy matte finish.”
Green beauty & skinimalism are strongly influencing makeup. Indian Ayurvedic brand FOREST ESSENTIALS has launched its natural makeup collection based on “the concept of skinmalism – when skincare meets minimalism to create a canvas that looks luminous and healthy” with SOM RASA SILK SKIN TINT that is described as “ a finishing cream, much lighter than a conventional foundation, it can be used as the first step of your makeup routine and last step of your skincare routine for a healthy glow.”